A few seconds later, the head of a terrified elephant seal appeared amongst the pod, its eyes wide open in alarm, a gaping tear visible in its left flipper.

7 minute read

I was the sole occupant of a mile-long stretch of beach, which is perhaps not surprising when one considers it was just past 4am…

7 minute read

There was no Internet access, no cellphone signal and no landline in the old military portacabin that was to be my home for the next few days. There was a two-way radio but I had been advised that it would only be monitored in the evening.

9 minute read